Exfoliants

Aging skin often looks rough and sallow because it doesn't slough off dead surface skin cells as easily as younger skin. Exfoliant ingredients added to moisturizers address this situation, improving the appearance of the skin by removing these cells.

Two chemical exfoliants, alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids, lower the skin's pH level; this is believed to renew the skin more effectively than many scrubs, masks, soaps, toners, or abrasive cloths.

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). AHAs are obtained from fruits, including grapes, citrus fruits, and apples. Look for glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, alpha-hydroxyoctanoic acid, triple fruit acid, or sugar-cane extract on the label. AHAs can also cause skin irritation and may increase sensitivity to UV radiation. The FDA has cautioned consumers to use only products that contain an AHA concentration of 10% or less and a pH of 3.5 or more (lower pH numbers are more acidic), and to apply a sunscreen along with AHA-containing products.

AHAs, particularly glycolic acid, are used in chemical peels in concentrations of 20%-30% or higher. An FDA review panel concluded that cosmetologists or skin aestheticians can safely use glycolic acid and lactic acid at concentrations not greater than 30% and with a pH not lower than 3.0 for brief skin-care sessions, provided that thorough rinsing and daily sun protection follow. In higher concentrations, AHAs should be applied only by physicians.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). BHAs are chemically distinct from AHAs and are believed to smooth skin without some of AHAs' irritating effects. The most widely used BHA is salicylic acid, and like its relative aspirin, it has antiinflammatory properties. It also doesn't penetrate as deeply as AHAs do. Moreover, salicylic acid is more effective than AHAs for exfoliating oily areas of the skin, making it useful if you have oily skin or problems with adult acne.

BHAs and salicylic acid can be found in many acne products at effective levels of 1.5%-2%. But anti-wrinkle products containing these ingredients tend not to list the percentage on their labels, so it's difficult to know whether they contain sufficient amounts to be effective. Other BHAs include beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, tropic acid, and trethocanic acid.

The FDA recommends that BHAs first be used on a small patch of skin, to see whether irritation occurs, and that you use a sunscreen with BHA products, as they can increase the skin's sun sensitivity.

Source: LHJ.com - Ladies’ Home Journal online